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so im building my new house and i dont want to waste space for stairs, so im building pic related.

ive made custom electronics to control it, z-limits and some safety stuff, like cable tension sensor, now i want to block the lift while motor is not engaged or the safety sensors trigger.

i was thinking on ATV brake calipers from aliexpress but the size of disc in my case is 9-10mm and i dont clearly see if i would be able to rectify them.

as i planned to use linear actuators to push hydraulic brakes, i could also use the actuators to move some piston and solder steps to the main bar to mount on them, but id prefer a better solution

any help?
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>i dont want to waste space for stairs
In properly built elevators, if the cable snaps, the elevator locks in place on the rails.
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exactly this is the point of this thread, see >>2134839 im looking for ways to block the cage for resting and on alarm trigger.

Ive got pic related to measure the load and alarm if
>cable snaps
>the weight is overloaded
>the cage displacement is blocked by something.
If you ask why i choosen active electronics that need power over passive safety, i have at hand all the electronics i need, the power is backed up and passive safety like otis system usually its destructive with the components in order to work, fe having wood strip and letting a metal bar inside it, controlling the cabble with elastic pulleys... im more experienced and confident with electronics
so you haven't looked into regulations or code for any of this. The city is going to fuck you so hard, you might even lose your house. Good luck.
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>so you haven't looked into regulations
anon ive already passed the inspections, dont know where you live, but in spain they cannot do shit

Who the fuck are they trying to compete with? Lowes already has their rigid (kobalt) and Ryobi (craftsman) competitors, along with carrying bosch and DeWalt for the prosumer while home depot carrys Milwaukee, makita, and dewalt. It doesn't stack up to any of the big prosumer brands but it also seems to be trying to be slightly better than the mid tier kobalts/rigids. Why the fuck would anyone want this? Not to mention it's a little sus how quickly the whole fucking line is dropping but take that as you will
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metabo is cringe
why do you make this thread again?

here are the facts:
FLEX was a German company which invented the Angle grinder.
Flex was known for its quality and Germans call Angle grinders Flex
>Hey can you give me the flex -> someone wants a angle grinder.

In 2014 Flex got bought by the Chinese company Chevron which also owns skill.
for a few years they continued to make premium red Flex power tools.
In Germany they still hire F&E so there could still be some German quality left

now i assume they went the way all Chinese owned brands go and they couldn't resist to slap the name on Chinese junk and rape the company name.

Why is DIY full of brand dick sucking competitions?

Just name what works and isn't shit with a decent price and that's it. Never understood this "I will defend my favourite chinkshit brand from anyone who disagrees" mentality. Like, yes some brands make better tools than others, but, why argue, is the brand paying you? Why this stupid fanatisism behind a brand?
Hikoki is best brand, eat shit
I agree. Im actually using a Milwaukee surge impact as of late and even though it turns out less torque it is much easier and comfortable to use. If i need to drive 8 inch lags ill use a real impact.

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What's the worst DIY injury you've ever had?

I was working on an ATV, had to pull the little push pins out to get the gas tank off. I was prying on them from either side with flathead screwdrivers when the one in my left hand slipped and slid directly under my right thumbnail. Popped it clean off. I said all 7 words you can't say on TV and was sick to my stomach for an hour
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Fucked up the notch cut placement on one of the first trees I even felled. Came down well, but bounced like a 5yr old on meth and my shin ate the drop from bounce 1. Had a bone bruise for at least a month, lumped out for 2 weeks. I'm very lucky it didn't actually break.
Cutting steel with a dremel bit. It skips off and cuts into two fingers, nearly to the bone.

Moving a gun safe. Kick the bottom. Hits big toe nail just right. Gushes blood and falls off a month later. Grew back fully a year later.

Working construction, picked up a 2x8 and got a fuck-huge splinter the size of a pencil in my palm.

Not too bad really considering I'm not a terribly safety conscious person. I really should be more careful as I'm getting old.
Yea that anon is a retard, only these alternative ones are meant to be lightweight, but they still use a high tensile steel sheet on the bottom. It's just that toe protection requires a volume and a shape so it would be heavier with steel.
Personally, I don't care.
Wire from a wire wheel managed to make its way all the way to the bone. I didn't notice it immediately - managed to work its way in deeper, and noticed the next day when I picked something up.
I assumed it must be a fracture/broken bone so went to urgent care for an x-ray, but where they found it was a piece of metal and referred me to the ER. Doctors were afraid to pull it out and I got swarmed by like a dozen doctors trying to convince me I'll never be able to use the finger again when I said I'll just try to take it out myself then. Worker's comp paid for the surgery so I waited a week for the surgery.
Funny thing is the injury happened 2 days after I gave 2 weeks notice.
Second worse was I dropped a 6" x 6" x 6" cube of steel on my foot from a height of about 2 feet up. No permanent damage but wore steel toes from that day on. It was for a mechanical testing fixture so the first thing I did after that was weld handles on.

>Americans can plug these into a 20A circuit
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Europe isn't much different either, we can plug these into 25A circuit. I've never seen plug with fuse.
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it says 13A right on the cord.
Gotcha. So the UK-built one has the stamp proving you've paid for your rollover license then?
>Europe isn't much different either,
Well maybe your country, which is that? In Denmark you absolutely fucking can't. You have 13A circuits at 230v, and unless you're a business, you don't have more amps than that. And only if you buy shady non-approved appliances and cables made in China, you won't be extending it with say a 5A cable. That isn't allowed in regulations.

I was changing out a ballast on one of my fluorescent lamps and it exploded right in my hand right before arcing, I took the brunt of 277 volts but it didn't go across my chest I believe. It's been two days and didn't feel anything, but now when i sit down I feel like my hearts skipping a beat ... or maybe a shortness of breath.. it's hard to describe. Am i going to die? Should i go to the emergency room before my heart explodes? Can shock have an effect this late?
ZAWA no ur gonna be fine ur just bein a bitch
Your fault for not cutting power first.
First off you're retarded
Second off I'd get it checked out. More and more studies are coming out saying that electrical shocks can have residual effects even if initially you seem fine. If you have insurance it's better to go and be fine than don't and die
>I took the brunt of 277 volts but it didn't go across my chest
volts don't kill. amps do
It's called anxiety. You're obviously worried enough about it that every little nuance of your heartbeat is freaking you out. It's part rush, part lightheadedness and part gasp.

Go to a medxpress or whatever clinic you have locally and just get checked out to put yourself at ease.

But yeah, you're a dumbass. Always disconnect first.

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How do you fortify a house so well that not even the lockpicking lawyer could break in?
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Depends who you are and if you're protecting valuables or people.
If you need to defend people, fortifying your house is useless because you hopefully still get out of it and they can get you wherever you are.
If you defend big stuff, make it impossible to get it out via land (thorny/bushy plants, ditches etc).
If you defend small valuable stuff, just store it in a bank or insure it.
If you have psychological problems and feel "unsafe", hire a psychologist.
If you have nothing worth more than a paycheck in your house, leave it open.
There's literally no reason to "fortify" a house, there isn't any ROI whatsoever.
Little bit of childproofing goes a long way
You don't. You just make it inconvenient enough so that thieves will choose something easier.

If someone really wants to get in to your house and they are not dumb as a rock then they are going to get in, you may delay them for a while at best.

If you worry about that then move somewhere that's not so shitty that you need to worry about that.
you can easily defeat a lock picker by using an effective and properly installed digital locking system with no known bypasses.
but you are not going to stop the LockDisregardingLumberjack from pulling up to the side of your house with a chainsaw and cutting in a new doorway.
Abloy Protec 2

There's something wrong with my basement. Strong musty smell, white on the walls (could be mold or salt leeching from the concrete, hard to say), prior diesel spill from rusted out tank and thus lingering shitty fucking caustic smell. But those are just layers on a much older problem, basically going down there makes me very sick. I almost start losing consciousness, tachycardia, strong nausea. All I can think of is sewer gas, but there are no leaks, the toilet is well sealed, and so on. I don't smell hydrogen sulfide, but perhaps there is methane? Is it possible that the basement has formed a sort of methane "sink" and maybe that's facilitating mold growth? I had a window open down there and a fan blowing all summer last year, but the musty smell of the air never changed one bit.

Anyway, I feel a bit disoriented. At night in aprticular, perhaps with an inversion of the air or something else,a strong nose burning mold smell comes up to the main floor. Burns my nose and lungs. It really pisses me off and I'm sick of it. I can't see any mold resevoir or any obvious source, I scrubbed down some of the walls and black grime did come off leaving the wall a brighter color.

I don't know man. I'm cleaning it out now (again), maybe I'll find something new, could be drainage issues outside as well. I'd leave the window out to (with futility) blow out whatever gases are under there, but then cold damp air would descend in and recondense. Right now I'm trying to get it as hot and dry as possible, I have an electrostatic cleaner going, and hopefully any spores or bullshit will settle and I can vacuum or mop. Doesn't help that the floor is a fucking mess with shit everywhere that got dumped on me from elsewhere.

Anyway, methane sink, mold, some other gas? I'm in the Northeast US. The diminished consciousness is both rapid and profound, as well as lasting. I'm not sure what could outright displace the oxygen, don't have O2 sat sensor.
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How long have you been living like this?! Do you have return air vents down there recirculating all this shit around your house?
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Ok, I was hoping to not post a picture. If you see something that looks like I'm making meth, it is your imagination.
Help with smell is appreciated.
>pristine walls
>frat boy pig/depressed alcoholic floor
The duality of shit posting.
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I don't have a functioning camera. This is the best image I have from some time ago.

Someone mentioned I could call the fire dept, they would have air test equipment.

Some number of years. I tried to seal off the basement a while ago, which probably made the mold worse.

Get around to fixing one thing, several others go wrong and only ever get worse. I'd gotten pretty deep into dissociation and learned helplessness, but what can ya do, I'm working on it now.

Not me. Don't be a dick.
And also, I have to think it's mold because it hasn't seemed to crystallize at all, touching it it turns to a very fine powder. Seems like salts would try to form some more macro crystals.

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Ok /diy/, I'm in the middle of rebuilding a shitty motorbike engine to slap on a gokart, but the crank (pic related) has a couple of press fit bearings and I'm trying to clean them out. i already stuck it in a ziplock bag with some gas and gave it a good shake, and loads of iron powder came out. Whats the best way of properly cleaning these bearings out, considering I cant remove them to replace them and I'm too cheap to buy a new crank?
>inb4 its fucked
yeah, probably. the oil was full of the powder, so not all from the bearings, but I'm trying to get as much life out of it as possible without blowing a load of money on it. They don't feel too bad, but there's definitely some more in there. I replaced the rest of the bearings, but can't do these ones
Think your best bet is to not touch it and maybe change the baring seals.
no seals on the bearings, thats how all the shit got in (probably from stuff like the clutch and cam). I doubt im going to do any harm to them cleaning them out with a little bit of care. It just seems no matter how many times I rinse them theres more shit coming out


Is this how India becomes a superpower? What's the catch here?
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Rajeesh made a flywheel. The big cast iron wheel stores enough energy to keep things rolling. There's nothing mystical or magical about it.
>What's the catch here?
it's an over unity device which cannot work. it's faked, whatever it is.
if you guys really think the flywheel wouldn't slow or dim the lights at all while running a saw or welder then there is no saving you.
Something tells me that the motor wouldn't have enough grunt to push a 12kw 220v alternator at 1500 RPM under load. Just saying.
I notice there's nothing there to actually measure the output. Just because a 12kw alt is turning, and putting out power, doesn't mean that it's putting out 12kw.

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I am debating between Ridged, Milwaukee, Ryobi.

Home depot seems to be shilling Ryobi hard.
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Pretty sure the parts, like the motors and shit like that are from China. The fact that they just put them together in Germany doesn't eliminate the fact that it is in fact chink shit.
The only one coping here is you, stop sucking brands dicks, the brand isn't paying you.
Sure bud.
Ryobi, but only if you pay extra and get the brushless versions of the tools. The basic ones are actual dogshit.

never buying a makita ever again desu
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>it won’t make outdated corded tools any better
I didn't imply it would. If you're in a situation where you don't need the portability of a cordless tool, then it should be an option to purchase an equivalent if not better corded tool. The extra weight of the battery and the limited number of charge-discharge cycles of the battery make it a somewhat worse product as far as convenience goes.
Just let me unplug and bring that extension chord with me into every single fucking room in the hotel I am working in. That will be fun and good use of my time.

Different tools for different jobs.
If you own a cordless drill, then you likely already have batteries. And you never know when you will need the tool and not have a good 120V power source nearby. You might have a little extra weight in the battery, but you have better ergonomics of newly designed tools, plus compact brushless motors, so it’s sort of a wash.

I still don’t own a cordless 7-1/4” circular saw because my corded one has been fine for cutting shit in my garage, but with 2021 cordless tools, if I didn’t have a circular saw and I already had the batteries and the cordless bare tool and the corded tool were about the same price, I would probably go cordless because the batteries are so good these days and I wouldn’t need to deal with heavy extension cords.
>you have better ergonomics of newly designed tools, plus compact brushless motors
that's why I posted the based Hikoki brushless corded impact in the first place
obviously most corded drills are ass
>rocker switch
Seriously, the variable speed triggers and brakes and speed/power settings on cordless guns are such a luxury on a tool like that once you use them.

How to fix the wheel it doesn’t have the little cap like a bicycle wheel and I don’t know how I’m supposed to fill it with air thank u for ur advice anon
A wheelbarrow with a plastic wheel.
I thought releasing weaponized flu virus on the world was the worst that the Chinese could manage.
I was wrong.
Take the belt holding up your pants and put around outside of tire and tighten it to compress tire and bring edge to rim. Then use a air compressor to fill. Or remove valve stem and put a tube inside.
Unpressurised spike proof rubber wheels have been around for years.

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I intend to make a horizontal bandsaw
What are some non obvious things I should take into consideration? What's the ideal wheel design and blade length?
round wheels work best. biggest blade u can fit

so after my retarded gardeners whacked off my carrots I decided to get a mower so I can fire them. I got a used one from a local boomer for $20 so I could use the opportunity to learn the basics of engine repair and rebuilding.
so, main issue I'm having right now is my absolute lack of knowledge of what the correct terms are for looking up engine diagrams. I don't know what year the mower was made in so it's been impossible to find info on it. all I know is it's from around the 1970's, a 4 stroke, and push propelled. I've taken it apart somewhat so I can clean it, but I'm stuck trying to figure out how to access a bolt that holds the pull start and fuel tank in place that's blocked by the fuel line.

so my actual question. is there a database or website out there that will help me with engine identification and diagrams?
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>website out there that will help me with engine identification and diagrams?
YES. it's called google. It where I go.
>proper diagrams for a mower engine that old are gonna be a really hard find, most diagrams don't really exist before the 90s.
you have NO fucking idea what you are talking about. not only are they available they are all over the place on the internet. you must be stupid.
That boomer got you.

He would have had to pay to throw that thing away, instead you gave him money AND took away his trash.
its an old briggs and stratton, probably 2 or 3hp, can tell by the air filter housing. have you taken off the carb yet? chances are its gummed up with old gas if the last owner couldnt get it started without starting fluid. you can get rebuild kits for the carbs, just take yours apart and buy the kit that has the same shape gaskets. other than that the only thing I can think of is valve stretch, but I wouldnt worry about that unless a carb rebuild doesnt fix it.dont worry about anything else, these had shit tolereances from the factory so a few years wear wont make it any worse.
They are incredibly easy to work on, parts, and all the info you need is on line.

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I'm making bracelets out of the rims of spent shell casings. I cut about a 1/4" off the bottom of each case with a Dremel cutting wheel then drill four 1/16" holes then slightly smooth and buff cut edges with a metal brush Dremel bit. I don't have much experience with brass or metal. What sort of breathing protection should I wear for this? Are there any precuations I should consider? Am I creating toxic gases or particles that linger in the air (I was thinking the particles would be too heavy to float for long)?
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Not that guy, but I've known more than a few guys that throw their brass in a tumbler with walnut shell media before they deprime and after as well. Pretty sure that'd be cleaning them. So you're assuming, he's projecting, you're both faggots
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>I've known more than a few guys
the people you know are poor because

>walnut shell media
that will do fuck all for primer residue. if you want to get rid of that you're either autistically sitting there with a primer pocket brush which no one does any more, or you're using a rotary tumbler with stainless steel media
>Are you doing this 40+ hours a week for the foreseeable future? If not, don't bother with anything. If yes, consider an N95 mask for grinding, drilling doesn't create anything worth giving a shit about.

This. There may be lead in the brass as it's probably still legal in the us but the amounts are small and irrelevant even if you do this 12hrs every day. The residue is probably way more harmful but as long as people are shooting without masks it's also nothing to worry about. People shooting indoors are breathing in orders of magnitudes more of that crap and still are fine.

Most of the precautions stem from work environments. Decades ago people were grinding carbide without masks 10hrs a day for years and that was just enough to see some abnormalities in disease distribution. I still (mostly) wear a mask for a quick grind (maybe twice a week) but that's probably already overkill and carbide is way worse than brass.

If you are worried just open the windows while or after grinding.
>People shooting indoors are breathing in orders of magnitudes more of that crap and still are fine.
They're fine because ranges have strong ventilation systems. I've been in ranges which dont air condition them, and brought my own fan in the summer to deal with the >90F heat. After shooting 200 or so rounds of 7.62 NATO, when I blew my nose, the snot came out black. Ranges ban food and drink from the firing line for good reason.
/fa/ advice, use casings from top shelf or classic ammo brands.

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